Tuesday, June 29, 2010

Foodie Friends in South America


Foodie Friends at Sea
South American Passage Cruise
January 28 – February 13, 2010


Thursday, January 28, 2010
The Foodie Friends met at the Tampa airport for our flight to Atlanta. We had a close connection in Atlanta so we ran (or wheel chaired) to our flight. We all made it, arriving in Santiago on time the next morning.

Friday, January 29, 2010
We were greeted in Santiago by our guide Chris, who after seeing the massive amount of luggage we had, called for a larger bus. We went to our hotel to rest before our afternoon tour of Santiago. Our hotel, Four Points by Sheraton, was located in the Providencia area with pretty tree lined streets and many shops and restaurants nearby. The Foodies were on their own for dinner and some went to Astrid & Gaston, and had one of the best meals of their lives.

Saturday, January 30, 2010
Due to extra cleaning of the ship because of stomach illness on the last several cruises we were late boarding the Veendam and did not sail until 8:00PM rather than the planned 5:00PM departure. However, Chris, our tour guide extraordinaire found more places for us to explore in Valparaiso until we could check in for our cruise.

Sunday, January 31, 2010
Our first day at sea was spent relaxing, acquainting (or reacquainting) ourselves with the Veendam, attending various lectures, eating and drinking, and enjoying our first formal night.

Monday, February 01, 2010
It was raining when we arrived in Puerto Montt. Puerto Montt is a tender port and though the seas were calm enough to safely board the tender, the ramp at the dock was quite steep when we arrived. By afternoon the tide had come in and our departure was much easier.
Puerto Montt is located at the southern end of the beautiful lake district of Southern Chile. It is not a very pretty town itself, but is the gateway to the beautiful Lake Llanquihue area. Salmon farming has been a booming industry in the area until a recent virus shut down most of the farms. They hope to resume farming in two or three years, but in the meantime salmon farming has moved further south.
We took a tour to two of the German towns on Lake Llanquihue, Puerto Varas and Frutillar. I was a little disappointed in Puerto Varas as it was not as I had imagined. It is called the City of Roses and did have beautiful roses throughout the city. The lake is huge and is has nice hotels along the shore.
Frutillar was a quaint little town and I liked it better than Puerto Varas. Stuart and I toured the historical museum, looked in some of the shops and joined Brenda and Jonelle for some Chilean Chardonnay and German sausage. Those that went to Petrohue Falls said they were beautiful. Maybe next time!
We ended our day in Puerto Montt shopping in the craft markets near the dock. Lots of choices of woven hats, scarves, and other local souvenirs.

Tuesday, February 02, 2010
We enjoyed a wonderful presentation by Pat and Bob Sheldon, “Fifteen Simple Recipes that will improve your Life” while cruising the Darwin Channel and Chilean Fjords.

Wednesday, February 03, 2010
We spent a rather lazy day at sea, leaving the Pacific Ocean at 6:00AM and entering Pitt Chanel to pass through the Chilean Fjords on our way to the Strait of Magellan and Punta Arenas, Chile. There were high mountains on both sides of the ship and we saw out first snow capped peaks.

Thursday, February 04, 2010
We arrived in Punta Arenas on time and were ready at 7:30AM for our trip to Isla Magdalena and the Los Pinguinos” (The Penguins) Natural monument. We boarded a bus to the ferry for a two hour ride to the island. The ferry, a refurbished LST, was comfortable and with the help of naps and good friends the time passed quickly. We were graced with beautiful weather – cold, no wind, and sunny!
What a treat! Thousands (estimated number is 69,000 couples) of Magellanic Penguins up close and personal! They were very tame and didn’t seem to mind having their pictures taken. They live in little burrows that they dig and decorate themselves. Smal fish, such as anchovies comprise their diet. We had to be careful not to stop them on their way to the water to fish. If you got in their path and broke their stride they will often get confused and go back without getting food for themselves or their young.
In the afternoon we went into town. Punta Arenas is a city of about 100,000 residents overlooking the Strait of Magellan. It was an important port city prior to the opening of the Panama Canal. In the early twentieth century fabulous wealth was produced by the large sheep and cattle ranchers and some of these buildings are now museums and hotels. We took a taxi to the Plaza Munoz Gamero with its bronze sculpture of Ferdinand Magellan and some native Indians. We rubbed the toe of one of the Indians which means we will return to Punta Arenas. We did a little sightseeing and shopping in the craft stands in the square. Again, the weather was very good as it can be very windy in town this time of year.

Friday, February 05, 2010
Wow! We thought the scenery was beautiful in the Chilean Fjords, but it was nothing compared to the Beagle Channel and the Avenue of Glaciers! I have never seen such beauty! Again we faced a beautiful clear and calm day.
We docked in Ushuaia, Argentina around 2:00PM and some of us went on a tour of the area that included a drive through the mountains with a brief stop for wine at the Morada del Aguila ski resort and back to town with a visit to their super market for more wine and other essentials. Ushuaia was founded as a penal colony and is very different than the wealthy beginnings of Punta Arenas.

Saturday, February 06, 2010
This morning we were awakened early (6:50AM) by the Captain announcing that we would soon be circumventing Cape Horn. The Captain commented on the absolutely perfect weather- calm seas and good visibility. The frequent storms, strong currents and icebergs can make this passage hazardous at times. Winds causing huge swells are treacherous and many sailors have lost their lives in these waters. There is a monument on Cape Horn honoring the seamen of all nations that have lost their life fighting natural causes in these waters. The winds are so strong as there is no land mass until Antarctica, 600 miles away. Also by the monument is the light house and residence of the lighthouse keeper.

I am the albatross that awaits you
At the end of the world.
I am the forgotten souls of dead mariners
Who passed Cape Horn
From all the oceans of the world.
But they did not die
In the furious waves.
Today they sail on my wings
Toward eternity,
In the last crack
Of the Antarctic winds.

By Sara Vial

Cape Horn is the southernmost point of South America and has a rocky terrain of mostly granite that rises to a height of 1391 feet. Due to the strong winds and storms there is little vegetation. No trees, only soft peat and hearty grasses.
The ship’s horn was sounded as we passed from the Pacific Ocean into the Atlantic Ocean. Ferdinand Magellan first navigated a passage through the complicated channels that was then thought to be the most southerly point of the continent. Drake and others followed through to the Pacific Ocean, but it was Le Maire and the Schouten brothers of the Netherlands who first sailed around the cape. They named the southernmost point Kaap van Hoorn in honor of their village in the Netherlands. The Spaniards adopted the Dutch name as “Cabo de Hornos”, but the phrase translates to English as “Cape of the Ovens”.
In the 1850’s it took 200 days to sail from New York to San Francisco. At one time the Falkland Islands were the closest place for supplies and ship repair. They were notorious for price gouging and ships were sometime abandoned rather than pay the high cost of repair.
We saw Black-Browed Albatross gliding around the ship. They spend most of their time in the air and only land to breed. Young albatross can spend several years in the air before ever landing. They fly 90 kilometers an hour and can fly great distances. There also were Antarctic terns, but they were difficult to see as they are all white and quite small. During migration time humpback whales can be seen traveling to and from Antarctica.
With binoculars we could see the Chilean flag, lighthouse, chapel, residence, and utility buildings on the island. We could also see the large sculpture of an albatross. As we were passing we could see a red helicopter bringing supplies.
By 8:15AM we were on our way the Pt. Stanley, Falkland Islands, or so we thought.

Sunday, February 07, 2010
This morning the Captain announced we would be unable to go to Pt Stanley because of heavy winds and poor visibility. The winds were from the east at 45 knots, gusting to over 50 knots. They were causing rough seas with up to twenty five foot swells. If the winds had of been from the west it would have been okay, but with strong easterly winds it would be unsafe to tender into Pt. Stanley. So we are proceeding on to Montevideo. We are all disappointed but are keeping ourselves busy with added ship activities. We also got a game of Foodie Fight going. They guys against the girls, of course the girls won!

Monday, February 08, 2010
A relaxing day at sea with an afternoon private wine tasting for the Foodie Friends.
Tuesday, February 09, 2010
Another day at sea. The highlight being a Foodie talk led by Foodie Leaders’ Pat & Bob Sheldon. We drank champagne and talked food. After our food discussion we moved to the Pinnacle Grill for a fabulous Foodie Friends luncheon.

Wednesday, February 10, 2010
We arrived in beautiful Montevideo, Uruguay early in the morning. Uruguay is one of the smallest countries in South America with a population of around three million, half of who reside in the capital, Montevideo. Montevideo has a very European feel and the country is unusual for South America as most of the population is of the middle class.
A group of Foodies took a highlights tour of Montevideo. Stuart fell in love with Montevideo and is ready to move there.

Thursday, February 11, 2010
Arrival in Buenos Aires and the end of our cruise, but not the end of our adventure. We were met by our tour guide and with a little difficulty managed to load the Foodies and all their luggage into the bus. We had a quick tour of the “Paris of South America” before settling into our hotel. First stop was Recoleta Cemetery to see the elaborate tombs and Mausoleums of the Buenos Aires elite. Eva Peron is buried here in her family’s simple dark marble crypt. Then a drive down the very busy twelve lane Avenida 9 de Julio, a stop at Plaza de Mayo, a drive through the Bohemian neighborhood of San Telmo, a stop for lunch and tango in La Boca, then through the Puerto Madero area and to our hotel.
That night some of the Foodies went to a fabulous dinner and tango at Gala Tango. We feasted on Argentinean cuisine and enjoyed a show of superb tango and other traditional dances and songs of Argentina. It was one of the highlights of the trip.

Friday, February 12, 2010
Our flight is at 9:30 PM tonight¸ so time for last minute sightseeing, shopping, and eating.

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